ChainLabs

Long Time No See

2010-09-29T21:36:00.000-04:00

So I haven't updated this in a while.

But I got good stuff. I built myself a computer from used parts and new parts that I bought in Taiwan! :D

Gigabyte GA-G31M-G2L Mobo
2.0 GHz Pentium Duo
4 GB DDR2 RAM
80 GB + 1 TB HDD's
DVD-RW Burner

Back in US, I stuck it in a cardboard box and hooked everything together to make sure it all worked.

The initial setup of the computer when I came back from Taiwan:

Chyeaa. Ghetto.

For the record, we own a Macbook Pro and an upgrade disk so yea. Closer view of the cardboard box setup I had running. Airflow went straight up.

Even closer view of the box computer.

So then I stuck it in an old case and then I hooked it up to the sound system we have in our house with an RCA cable I cut and soldered to a 1/8-inch jack cable. I also hooked up the TV to it. My dad and I also built a nice "floating" desk to go with the new computer and monitor/TV combination.

Full view of computer with TV with sound system. Little center speakers on the floor under the TV. :D

Desktop view. With card reader jutting out unaesthetically. :P I can get those Wiimotes to work as pointers for the computer too! DarwiinRemote.

Underneath the desk. This desk came from the top of an old cabinet that my dad and I ripped off. We bought the supports and non-OEM screws from Home Depot and spent like several hours trying to get everything right. Ended up we had to prop it up on wooden blocks, which you can see in the top left corner. Still kinda rickety but good enough for non-heavy use.

I also got a used chemical ice pack from a friend, so I decided to have a little fun and try to recrystallize the ammonium nitrate in the water in the ice pack. I first did it by pouring some in a metal cup and putting the cup under a halogen lamp for like an hour. It worked - stuff boiled off and I got nice crystals. But it took way too long and wasted too much energy. So I made alcohol stoves from Altoids tins. :D

The base for the alcohol stove also acts as a carry case! :D

Grille for holding whatever you're heating, and the altoids stove on the right.

Little holes drilled in the side of the base so that air can go in and burn the alcohol. It'll make sense by the next next picture.

So we open the altoids tin with two rolls of gauze inside for absorbing and wicking off alcohol to burn...

So this is the stove fully set up, with that metal cup on top. The holes in the base draw in air which mixes with the alcohol in the gauze-roll wicks. That is lit through the hole on the lid and the flames reach up and heat the cup. :D Simple and effective. The grille was made from a computer fan grille with 4 bolts and nuts. Pretty simple.

Crystallized ammonium nitrate. Too wet to be used for anything, mostly proof of concept. You can see a few drops of liquid on the sides there near the top.

And that was what I did over the summer.

Nerf Gun Converted into Airsoft Gun

2010-03-23T19:14:00.003-04:00

Hey, since my last post I got the Nerf Recon CS-6 for a few months now. Upon rediscovering the fun of shooting airsoft guns, I wanted a more powerful one than the cheapo pistol I had from Taiwan, so I "modified" my nerf gun a bit.

Actually, my nerf gun wasn't modified. This conversion was more of an attachment than a modification. (I did, though, modify the nerf gun to shoot farther. Standard air restrictor removal and penny spring mod. Shoots 50 feet with streamline darts).

Here's how it works.

I took a nerf dart and cut off the head. Now it's a nerf tube.

I took a steel airsoft barrel from an airsoft tank that I took apart quite some time ago and
1. Attached a circuit hook-up wire across one end with masking tape
and
2. Put a small line of masking tape on the inside on the same end of the barrel, making a full circle. (you can see it a bit inside the barrel here)

I stuffed the steel barrel into the nerf tube and the modification is now complete.

The small wire on the barrel end serves to keep the BB in the barrel when aiming and loading (muzzle-loaded), so it doesn't fall out the end into the nerf gun itself.
The small lining of tape serves to hold the BB in the barrel when loaded, so it doesn't slide out when the gun points down.

By simply stuffing the above modified dart into the barrel of the nerf gun, the nerf gun was thus converted into an airsoft gun.

Using a simple setup with a stool, measuring tape, a laser pointer, and a shopping bag, I used kinematics to find that the crude approximate speed of the gun is around 277.788714 fps (feet per second). This is using 0.12g low-end BB's. If a 0.20g standard BB was used, the speed would have theoretically been (using conservation of energy) around 215.174213 fps. Which is pretty close to some mid-to-high-end spring-powered airsoft guns. Dang.

What I did was put the gun on the stool and made sure it was level by eye. I used the laser pointer to line up the gun with a paper shopping bag 10 ft away. By firing the gun and finding the height difference from launch to bag puncture, I could find

1. the time it took to get there.
2. using the time found, calculate the speed it had over 10 ft.

Which came out to the wonderful number you see above.

When I have more time, I'm going to make a better setup for better speed calculation - using bubble levels and a stiffer bag for better measurement.

Hey, BSoD!

2010-01-24T17:58:00.001-05:00

I returned to my PC partition and started playing around with various games. One download came up as a virus on the scanner so I deleted it. Unfortunately, something went wrong. Several more virus alerts came up as well as strange IE8 ads so I closed down the ads and deleted the viruses. So I thought, "Hm, I better turn off the new BCM94321MC Apple Airport Card I installed in my laptop for Wireless-N in the Mac Partition," and did so. About 3/4 of a second after I hit the wireless switch, the laptop freaked out and went BSoD on me. Rebooting had no effect.

Several options:
1. AntiVirus Boot CD scan -- in progress.
2. Uninstall custom BIOS needed for new wireless card and replace with authentic - maybe.

It may be that the new wireless card's driver is interfering with something -- dunno what. The two different BSoD errors I got on two separate reboots seem to be pointing to a driver problem. Oh well. I gotta remove the viruses first. So far, scanning for 2 hours came up with 7 alerts (some of which are kinda dubious).

Interesting.

Given Up

2009-11-22T16:14:00.000-05:00

I gave up the homemade nerf gun project. Too much money wasted, and with the looks of the new breech, it would have cost just as much to buy a normal Nerf gun. So I bought a Recon CS-6 and modded it according to here and here. Except instead of pipe cutters, I used a Leatherman knife with the handle bent in a way to hold the bolt in place while I rotated it. Now instead of the 25' range I got, I got around 40' of range! But the gun is too powerful, apparently, as the Nerf darts now fishtail and curve off around 30'-35'. I am working on that.

Nerf Gun: Construction Five

2009-11-17T22:22:00.002-05:00

Considering installing a new breech, because current modified Unknown breech has the following shortcomings:

1. When the dart is inserted, it must be pushed inwards a little bit to create a seal with the barrel.
2. 1/2" PVC doesn't hug the dart too closely.
3. The seals on the breech are a tiny bit too tight. That makes for hard reloading.
4. The hole through which the darts are loaded is just terrible. :P No possibility for interfacing with a gravity-fed magazine as formerly planned.

Reason #1 had the most impact, as a breech was supposed to make loading easier. It's hard to do something that exact while running and dodging darts and tracking targets at the same time.

So back to the drawing board. Partially. Air tank and hose nozzle seem to be very effective, though. On retrospection, picking a small air tank to be refilled after every shot was a good choice, as the hose nozzle had only two settings: all sealed or all released. No way the airflow could be controlled consciously.

So new design: If 1/2" CPVC fits smoothly inside 3/4" PVC, then I will cut a semicircular cross-section off of the 3/4" PVC for a breech, and "cone out" the inside of the 1/2" CPVC. Because the hose nozzle requires a 1" PVC pipe to attach to, I'll need a 1" --> 3/4" PVC adapter as well. Back to Ace Hardware, hopefully for the last time.

Nerf Gun: Construction Four

2009-11-16T21:41:00.002-05:00

Almost done.

Air leaks were sealed by using some of the inner tube where I got the tire valve from. Surprisingly, two layers of the stuff gave a perfect seal. Here's a closeup of the seal. It was sealed across the bolt slot and in rings on the ends of the loading slot on the smaller pipe.

Closeup of end of air tank with new tire valve installed. Tire valve was cut out from an inner tube.

Full view of the gun. In all its glory. :D

One thing left to do: mount the bicycle pump below the Unknown breech and connect to tire valve. That screw connection that connects the air tank to the hose nozzle needs to be glued up, too -- that's as leaky as the sound-proof practice rooms in the NBTHS music department.

Ciao for now.

Nerf Gun: Construction 3

2009-11-15T22:05:00.001-05:00

ARRRGG air leaks.

Nerf Gun: Construction Two

2009-11-15T17:38:00.003-05:00

Update 2:

Cut some holes in some of the pipes.

You can see the hole cut in the 1" PVC Pipe connected to the hose nozzle -- that's for that bolt over there to pull the barrel (the smaller PVC pipe) forward and back to reveal a hole for loading Nerf darts. That ring on the smaller pipe is for sealing the barrel mechanism as well as possible.

That hole there is for loading Nerf darts.

View of the barrel itself. I actually came across a problem, where the air would leak around the pipe. So I'm going to line the hole with electrical tape until it seals.

The little hole for the bolt on the bottom. I'm going to expand the hole, once I get the drill back from the neighbors.

Nerf Gun: Construction

2009-11-15T14:28:00.003-05:00

Here we go, went to Ace Hardware, spent freaking $37 on connectors and pumps and the like. Not even for the pipe (which I already had and i think was less expensive than the connectors). Anyway, PICTURES!

What I've got so far: the handle with O-ring and half the air tank on the bottom there. My plan for the air tank is to cut the valve from a bike tire and place it in a pipe endcap and cement that on.

This bunch of connectors attached by PVC cement.

O-ring connected to tip of hose nozzle for better seal with barrel. How did I get it so centered? Well since you asked...

I used a bit of 1" PVC pipe to center it by screwing the pipe onto the hose nozzle's tip.

I then put superglue onto the metal ring on the hose nozzle and slipped the O-ring in and doused it in more glue.

The barrel's design is the "Unknown Breech", which will screw directly on to the hose nozzle. A few changes, though. Instead of 2mm foam sheets to fit the barrel with the breech, I'm using several rings cut from 1/2" PVC pipe endcaps filed down to fit. And an O-ring between two of them. The tip of the barrel to be contacting the O-ring that was glued above will be filed down as to facilitate a better dart loading mechanism. I'm also working on a magazine to go on top of the Unknown Breech.

More updates to come as progress continues.

New Design V2

2009-10-29T19:51:00.002-04:00

Air tank. Pump. Garden hose nozzle. Unknown's breech. Maybe a gauge.

Power.

Nerf Gun: Design Change

2009-10-23T16:44:00.000-04:00

Creating a new design that will be pneumatic powered. With an actual trigger system. It should be a lot easier to design, implement, and build.

Leaks in the Air Pump

2009-09-28T21:10:00.001-04:00

Title is self-explanatory. There seem to be leaks in the air pump. School is restarting and robotics season is kicking up so this will probably be worked on over a long while. T_T

O-Ring Fault

2009-09-27T19:30:00.002-04:00

There's a design flaw with the pump. Spring and everything installed, everything works. I need to see what's the problem with that O-Ring inside the pump and install a trigger system. The problem is that it compresses air, but leaks if the motion of the plunger stops -- problem.

New Spring Design for Nerf Gun

2009-09-27T13:43:00.003-04:00

After some mishaps with two springs that did not work as planned, I changed the spring design to accommodate a pulling spring nested in the middle of the firing plunger. I also doused all connections in cyanoacrylate and hot glue. :D

Homemade Nerf Gun: Part II

2009-09-26T14:15:00.004-04:00

Some more pics of what's been going on.

T-Joint and couple-inch section of 1/2" pipe. Will be used to cock the gun. Also pictured is a ring made from a PVC end cap that will be used as a stopper.

I had taken out the cracked pump to repair. To accommodate new designs, I shifted that pipe mount (that used to be a couple notches back) up. You can also see how I stuffed that 1/2" pipe into the pump -- by melting it. >=D

New firing anchor for new design. Gorilla glued to two PVC pipe mounts.

The firing anchor is temporarily mounted this way to provide the Gorilla glue with the "clamping" that it needs to set properly.

Formerly cracked pump. The crack was pumped full with Krazy glue (ethyl cyanoacrylate) and then electrical-taped for sturdiness. Once the Gorilla glue sets on the firing anchor I can put it back in.

Right now this looks mumble-jumbled but I do have a set plan. I'll upload it later. Handwriting is horrible on it, though.

Homemade Nerf Gun: Prototype 1

2009-09-23T18:55:00.004-04:00

New project: Homemade Nerf Gun.

This idea started with a toy pump used for pumping up an air-powered airplane. I attached a length of 1/2" PVC pipe to the end to accommodate Nerf darts, and rigged up a system to power the entire mechanism via bungee cord. It was a basic bow and arrow, and was operated in the same way.

General view of the gun. The black pump, white PVC barrel, steel reinforcement are clearly visible. As is the bungee cord, which hooks onto the bent metal thing on the end of the barrel.

Back view of gun -- reinforcement visible.

A bolt on the handle serves to stop the plunger from impacting the PVC barrel inside the pump, as doing so propels the barrel out from the frame like a bullet.

The connection between pump and barrel. Both were whittled and filed down to fit each other, as it is a dry fit.

Front view of gun -- barrel, reinforcement, and bungee anchor are visible.

The result of firing the gun with the bolt on the handle in place. It placed all the stress on the outer casing of the pump, and it cracked a few inches.

I'm currently working on a new design that will be considerably more complex and will be spring-powered.

Update

2009-07-26T23:11:00.004-04:00

Haven't shown my face in a while. Again.

What has happened since my last update? My dad and I have installed an auxiliary input to my dad's 2005 Corolla, with a 6-CD Changer. We followed some instructions online which put us in the right direction, but had to do a little tinkering and testing to get it right. Now his iPhone is acting up and refusing to output to the headphone jack when it is plugged into the car. Not sure why that is yet.

And I have revamped my Crayola marker butane gun. Made it into a two-Crayola marker butane gun. Except that the firing isn't all that reliable nor is it any more powerful. I need to find an increased diameter, not an increased length (which is what I did) in order to make it more powerful. Project on hold.

With the boredom of summer, I'm going to research and build a proper HHO generator. Hopefully.

Recent Fun on the Computer

2009-04-29T17:56:00.003-04:00

For the past few weeks I've split my hard drive into its fourth and final partition, formatted in HFS+ (those who know what that is probably know what I'm doing ;]) (Partition 1 = Windows XP SP3, Partition 2 = swap, Partition 3 = ext3 for Ubuntu 8.10, for those who are curious). I've been wrestling with this operating system, getting Time Machine working was no biggie but I still don't have Wi-Fi (3945ABG wireless card not supported...drivers are being developed as we speak though), line-in/internal microphone, or the built-in Thinkpad Active Protection System working. Sleep doesn't work either. I tried to get that to work and the result was first a kext error and then a kernel panic. Joyous. I then reinstalled using iATKOS 5i and got rid of all the crapware that I had installed. It seems stable now, but I still wish sleep worked.

In the physical world, I took apart 3 hard drives and harvested monstrous neodymium magnets and 3 spindle motors. And lotsa shiny aluminum disks.

I also tried cauterizing nerve endings on a painful sore/cut wound. I used a piezoelectric igniter (lighter-grade), grounded another finger, and zapped the wound. The pain was white-hot but it became numb afterwards.

Not much more happening b/c of FRC season. Just random shooting moths with plastic BB guns. Planning on revamping that butane gun made from a crayola marker, making the combustion chamber a bit bigger to make it a bit more menacing. Hee hee.

Projectile Launcher

2009-03-11T10:09:00.002-04:00

I regularly look on the Instructables website (esp. the tech section) for various hacks and projects that I can pursue. One such Instructable was the butane-powered "gun" (more like miniature cannon -- it's not very strong) made from a Crayola marker and a Bic pen. And a lighter. So several weeks ago, I built it. It works. Barely. It works exceedingly well with the right projectile (rubber o-ring thingy with a screw through the middle). Pencil erasers are especially good projectiles -- they fit perfectly in the Bic pen barrel. However, it is not efficient nor is it strong enough to be of any practical use other than proof-of-concept. I'll post pictures and link to the Instructable later.

Jam Jar Jet Update

2009-02-12T22:35:00.004-05:00

Hi.

I've found some 3/8 drill bits and HAND-drilled (meaning turning the stupid bit around by hand and with nothing else) a single hole in a tomato sauce glass jar cap. And widened it using a can opener. Funfunfun. I've got the thing to ignite using the same rubbing alcohol and have it run for a couple seconds before it chokes itself out.

Possible reasons for choking out:
-gets too hot too fast; liquid alcohol evaporates quicker, messes up fuel/air ratio. there actually seems to be a certain temperature range that makes the thing go better.
-hole is of a bad size. i don't think so, because i've been slowly carving my way up from 3/8 to near 5/8 holes.
-no diffuser. probably not the main reason, but may contribute to the problem. alcohol gets pretty agitated by the constant barrage of explosions inside the jar.

It's fun to ignite. At first, when igniting a cold jar, the flame propogates from the top of the hole where it was ignited, running down the inside wall of the jar in a ring of fire until it gets to the bottom. Then, it coughs and starts to run like it's supposed to. It actually sounds like a car engine, starting slow then slowly speeding up. Then it chokes itself out. If the jar is warm/hot when it is first ignited, there is a HUGE jet of hot gas that BURSTS forth before it starts up. The problem is, if it is too violent of a starting jet, it doesn't start and just sits there. Dunno why.
The exhaust (especially leftover in the jar from running it) smells funky. The cut edge of the cap and several metal shavings in the bottom of the jar have both turned red from corrosion.

Wanna Arduino

2009-02-12T22:35:00.001-05:00

I wanna Arduino.

New Project!

2009-01-26T19:18:00.004-05:00

I have decided that the HHO Torch is going nowhere and that its efficiency at what it does will not be sufficient for my needs until I can get more information and materials. Thus, the project is suspended.

Taking its place is the creation and experimentation of valveless pulse jets, starting with the Jam Jar Jet featured in Make Magazine. Since I don't have a 1/2 inch drill bit, I'm drilling one 1/8 hole and several little holes around it in a circular/star arrangement. I'm hoping that works. I've done it first on (you've guessed it) apple juice bottles, but they were too tall and narrow to be effective. Thus, I've cleaned out 3 tomato sauce jars and one bamboo shoot jar to use. They're glass. I've done the same thing with the holes as mentioned above, and am testing the bamboo shoot jar first. I'm using rubbing alcohol (70%) as fuel.

BTW, I've found some 30% hydrogen peroxide. But it's old. I have yet to see whether it has lasted all this time.

And stemming off the last post, I have not (to date) spent $$ on any of my projects (except for a transistor from RadioShack, and my current soldering set). All the materials and tools were either gifts or garbage. Usually it's the latter.

I have updated my Thinkpad T60 with a new 320 GB WD Scorpio Blue 2.5" hard drive. Now I dual-boot Ubuntu and Windows, as opposed to single-booting Ubuntu. However, it makes this strange clicking sound every 10-15 seconds when it's idle...might be the safety feature on it. I'm thinking to add an internal bluetooth module, but I remember that my particular model (1951-44U) was not capable of an "official" bluetooth upgrade. Oh well.

I have hacked a Taiwanese rubber band gun to become more powerful. Now, it will shoot with the same power of a regular person if the proper rubber band is selected. I've lashed together an extension made of a toy tank turret fragment, and 5 pieces of bamboo chopsticks. And lots of cyanoacrylate.

More info will pop up randomly like above later.

Reminiscence

2008-10-24T22:34:00.002-04:00

I've decided to describe all the stuff in the first post in detail.

1. Flyback Transformer -- It started when I found this HUGE TV on the side of the road, ready to be demolished by the evils of unenvironmental people in orange jackets. I brought it home (with the assistance of an innocent bystander) and found that it actually was in working order. O_o. But because my family had no use and no room for it, I was given the OK to take it apart. And of course, before taking apart huge things that emit radiation, I looked online for things to target and not to target. I found the flyback transformer as one of them. I desoldered it and started searching for drivers. I think I still have the circuit board for the TV.

a. Single-Transistor Driven -- The first driver I used was the basic single-transistor driver. The only thing I had to buy was the transistor. I salvaged everything else. The driver worked well, 2 cm arcs. Estimated 15-30 kV.

b. CFL-driven -- I was looking around on Instructables.com when I found a new driver that was alleged to work. So I took apart a 13 watt CFL (compact fluorescent light -- those light bulbs that are all spirally and twisty) and hooked it up. It works. Same results as the single transistor.

2. Numerous Takeaparts -- I'll list as many as I can think of. Hard drives, cameras (digital and disposable), TV, computer monitors, numerous computers, laptops, CD drive, floppy drive, computer PSU, iPods, carbon monoxide alarm, solar powered calculator,...That's all I can think of at the moment. I'm sure there's more.

3. Volume-Reduction of a Flat-Screen LCD -- I took apart a flat-screen LCD that still worked well but was being disposed of because it wasn't being used. So I took it apart (the casing was HUGE) and built a cardboard enclosure that reduced the thickness by more that 30%.

4. Hard-Drive Takeaparts -- I've obtained numerous hard drives over the years (at first for the magnets inside). Now, I've got a 20 GB, 400 GB (bought), and two 30 GB (one dead). Others were here before but are no longer with us.

5. Butane-Fueled Gun -- A film canister with an aluminum tube sticking out the cap. I consider it a failure because it failed to produce the thrust necessary to shoot something. Sparks were made by piezoelectric igniters from lighters.

6. HHO Torch -- See posts for more info.

7. LED destruction -- Purely a for-fun project. Attach a electric bug racket to an LED. Watch out for shrapnel. 'Nuff said.

8. Capacitor Banks -- Using flash capacitors from disposable cameras, I've made a 5-cap bank. Because it pulse-discharges at 300 volts, it is considerably powerful enough to blast craters in pennies and vaporize large circles of aluminum. And vaporize thin wires completely.

9. Setting Random Things on Fire -- This is self-explanatory.

10. Match Rockets -- Very fun thing to do. I've made double and triple matchhead models but had them blow up in mid-air.

I'll post more later. This is not all that I've done. This is just the beginning.

New Cell Layout

2008-10-24T14:50:00.005-04:00

Building on the last post's electrode plans, after extensive testing, I'm going to make a "cell" out of the carbon electrodes. Each row of electrodes will be joined together by a soldered wire, and there will be several rows, alternating between (-) and (+).

I'm still looking for a new bootleg flashback arrestor...the last one made from a medicine pill bottle had unforeseen leaks.

Also, during the long hiatus, I had beefed up the capacitor bank charger/discharger. Now it blows half-centimeter diameter holes in aluminum foil and blasts little craters (deep enough to see zinc) in pennies. I may or may not post pictures of those.

I know how confusing this is, so pics in a few!

Choice of Electrodes

2008-10-23T16:59:00.003-04:00

Sorry for the long hiatus. School started.

I've chosen carbon rods for my electrodes. This is because they don't contaminate the water and remain conductive.

To keep the surface-volume ratio high, I've chosen sticks of .5 mm pencil lead. They will be "soldered" onto a thin aluminum wire (they aren't actually soldered, they reject being soldered, but it maintains a better electrical connection and holds the sticks in place). Pictures and results later!

New Plans

2008-08-24T17:16:00.001-04:00

Plannin' on replacing the electrodes with a whole cell, made out of either aluminum mesh (yeah, right....they'll disappear into powder) or razor blades. This cell will feature neutral plates, which should boost the gas output.

v3.1 Completed and Tested

2008-08-23T13:48:00.005-04:00

HHO Torch v3.1 was completed and tested. The electrolytic cell is made from an apple juice bottle with gold (plated?) electrodes from IC sockets. The cell works fine and is leak-free, but the new flashback arrestor made from a prescription med pill bottle appears to have a leak. Due to this leak, no flame was produced...yet. Gas output was much better with the new electrodes, and surprisingly did not vary with changing current. The gold electrodes on the anode somehow got black residue on them but was replaced as the residue was difficult to remove. More research found the 923 Hz frequency and Stan Meyer's research to be of questionable integrity. Photos soon.

2008-08-10T18:22:00.003-04:00

Version 3 completed. It consists of an plastic bottle with a more airtight screw-on cap connected to a pill bottle (flashback arrestor) with a 120v power cord insulation tube. Just finished testing it and determined that oxyhydrogen output is way too low. Researching on how to produce 923 Hz electric outputs for higher production efficiency. Pictures soon.

Pictures of HHO Torches v.1 and v.2

2008-07-29T17:49:00.003-04:00

PICTURES!!!

HHO Torch Electrolysis Cell v.1.0 (yes, it is a Chinese fish powder container. So what. Sue me. I like my stuff free. Not one of my projects (except a transistor for the flyback driver) has cost me a single cent so far.)

Ugh. Look at the corrosion on these electrodes.

Another shot of the fake aluminum electrodes (they were aluminum plated copper (?what's the use of that?))

Behold! It is v.2.0!
With flashback arrestor (little vial thingy). It prevents the cell itself from exploding in the event that the hydrogen flame burns back through the tube into the system.

A closer shot of the flashback arrestor. The gas comes through the white wire insulation (no wires in it) and bubbles through water (to remove particles). The water also acts as a flashback arrestor in the event of an explosion. The water stops the explosion from reaching the cell via tube.

More corroded electrodes. But these are actually real aluminum.

I will soon use some vinegar as an electrolyte, and not baking soda as baking soda creates this disgusting carbonate precipitate (Al(CO3)3?) that turns the water blue and creates this white stuff that settles as well as black specks. Interesting, but not wanted. And the Snapple cap is well sealed, but still is leaking. So I'm scratching the Snapple design in favor of something with a little more "screw" to the cap. Updates soon.

v.2.3 Scratched

2008-07-28T22:06:00.002-04:00

HHO Torch version 2.3 has been scratched due to a mysterious "leak" that cannot be identified. Version 3 is currently in the design phase. Photos of the failed version 2 family will be posted.

P.S.: Version 2.3 actually worked for a bit....until I switched electrodes from carbon rods to aluminum coils. I'm never using aluminum again. It decomposes into this black flaky stuff that falls to the bottom of the solution. Rate of production for carbon rods were slow, which was why I switched.

Hello!

2008-07-25T14:46:00.004-04:00

Hi! My name is Phil Chang, from New Jersey.

I like to experiment with anything moderately challenging or dangerous. Here are some of my projects so far (that I won't give a full description of):

1. Flyback Transformer
a. Single-Transistor Driven
b. CFL-driven
2. Numerous takeaparts (too many to mention)
3. Volume-Reduction of Flat-Screen LCD for use with laptop
4. Salvaging of Hard Drives and RAM from old computers for use (so far a live 80 GB, 20 GB, 18 GB hard drives salvaged; about 3-5 others already taken apart)
5. Butane-fueled gun
6. Electrolytic Cell v.1.0. for HHO torch.
7. Blowing up LED's (yes, they explode) with high voltage
8. Vaporizing strips of metal using photoflash capacitors (and getting shocked thrice)
9. Setting random things on fire and seeing what happens.
10. Match rockets.

And my current project....the HHO torch. It uses electrolysis of water to produce H2 gas and O2 gas (called HHO gas). It uses baking soda as an electrolytes. It then combines the gases at the torch tip, all in real time. Nearing completion of v.2.3. Version 1 was a glass container with a plastic snap-on lid with aluminum wire electrodes and wire insulation tubing. (Yes, I like things free.) Version 2.0 was developed to address the problem of gas leakage through the snap-on lid.

Version 2.0 was a Snapple bottle with holes in the cap for wire insulation tubing and electrodes. Version 2.0 was a success, creating good amounts of gas at reasonable pressures, but developed an unidentified leak (still not identified!). Version 2.1 was simply a cap replacement. That soon failed due to an oversized hole for the insulation tubing. Same with version 2.2. As of now, the cap for Version 2.3 has been fitted and the glue to seal the cap is drying. Pictures soon.